Dead Sea   After our first visit to the Dead Sea in 1997 and we came away with this 3 MUST DO LIST for a day in the Dead Sea.

• Watch sunrise from the top of Masada [***] , looking across the Dead Sea towards Jordan.  Of course, you'll have to get to the top early.  The trail opens at 6 AM (maybe earlier??).  There will be dozens or hundreds more lined up for the pre-dawn rush up the mountain.    

• Float in the Dead Sea [***].  You don't have to be a swimmer because sinking in the Dead Sea is impossible (like trying to force a helium balloon under water).

• Mud up your face and maybe your whole body.  (& Take a bag of mud home to re-live the experience in your bathtub.) 

2005 update:  The Dead Sea has shrunk.  The water line is further from the road, parking lots, and beach facilities.  One resort is trucking visitors a kilometer to the water line.   The black mud is also a bit harder to find and reach. 

Dead Sea mud gives you a sensational facial.   You just scope it up with your hands.  Also pack a plastic bag with mud, allow it to dry, seal and take home.  At home just add water to reconstitute mud.

Off beat Israel.  Over the years we discovered many off-beat things to do and see in Israel.  Here are our favorites:  Hiking The Burma Road built in the final days of the 1848 War of Independence to rescue Jerusalem. At the end of the hike there is a great Mediterranean/ Lebanese/ Falafel restaurant, the Abu Gosh Restaurant [*,$$]) with indoor/patio seating.  In Jerusalem visit the Museum of the Underground Prisoners  [***] where the British imprisoned (and in some cases tortured and executed) members of the Jewish underground - the Hagana, IZL, and Lehi.  Our favorite Jerusalem dinner location is Focaccia (**,$$) on 4 Rabbi Akiva St, a block form the main drag.  It is very popular.  Great food, huge proportions.  They make the best designer pizza in Jerusalem in a brick oven on the dining patio. 

Best cheap hotel and a great location:  Beit Shamuel (**,$).  A large room, with balcony and view of the old city, and a decent Israeli breakfast for two cost $90 in 2005. 

Exploring North Galilee with bicycles offers challenging hill climbing, discovering kibbutzim, beautiful countryside, tense border, and lots of history.   In Safed is one of Israel's best falafels: Falafel Tritto (Universal Falafel), on Jerusalem St, near city hall and the square.

Sde Boker: The Ben Gurion College has a "field school" B&B that makes a great base for activities in the Northern Negev, which includes desert hiking,  visting the Ben Gurion's retirement home,  tour family farms, etc.

Falafels are Israeli's'  favorite fast food.  For a guide to the best Falafels in the Middle East and elsewhere go to our Pizzas & Falafels web page.

Retracing the Exodus The 40 years trek started in Goshen (Egypt) and ended in Jerusalem.  Our first expedition to the Sinai covered the Goshen-Aqaba portion.

There are some great restaurants in Jerusalem.  In November 2007 we discovered Darna.   Darna [$$$,***]  ('Our House"), 3 Horkanoz St, is a Moroccan restaurant, run by a Moroccan, Ilan Sibony.  Fabulous food in fabulous outdoor seating.  Tables very well spaced, lighting is intimate, service impeccable.