The Busseto Pilgrimage Buesseto is where
Maestro G. Verdi was born and lived most of his life. And today it is
a pilgrimage for his fans.
The "Verdi history trail" has three parts: (1) his youth around
the village of Roncole Verdi; (2) early adulthood phase in Busseto before
his Milano period; (3) Later in life, after he became rich and famous
and returned from Milano, at his estate outside Busseto. All these can
be covered in one day, but if you are like us a very serious Verdi fan you
should plan three days (as we did in 2002) to allow enough time to see
and absorb everything there is to see. See Itinerary on right.
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Where to sleep and eat: The are several hotels in Busseto but
only one appropriate for a Verdi pilgrimage: Hotel
I Due
Foscari,
[**, $$]
started by well known Verdiian tenor
Carlo Begonzi, who himself was born in Busseto. Besides the Verdi
connection, there are other reasons to stay here: interesting architecture (sort of medieval castle in the interior);
very friendly; very reasonable; large rooms. There are only 20
rooms, so book well in advance. Ask for the room with a window overlooking Verdi statue in
the square.
Avoid the tourist crowds
at lunch or dinner: go to family run restaurants in neighboring towns.
One such establishment is Restaurata la Chiesa di San Michele [*,$].
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Busseto Itinerary
In a more or less Verdi
life chronological order here is the recommended itinerary of everything in and
around Buesseto .....
Roncole Verdi, a few kilometers SW of
Busseto
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Casa natale: Verdi's birthplace (October 10, 1813)
and childhood home.
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San Michele Arcangelo: a.k.a. Chiesa di Roncole, is the parish across the street
from Casa natale where Verdi was baptized and later was an alter boy. He
played the church's 736 pipes organ at the age of seven. That organ still
plays there today. There is also the myth that his mother hid with him in
the bell tower to escape Russian and Austrian troops (1814).
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Madonna dei Prati: This church is an interesting
Verdi spot that most tourists miss out on, possibly because it is a bit out of
the way - about 2 km from Roncole Verdi. Verdi studied music at the
rectory. There is a myth here that one of Verdi's teachers and three
others were struck here by lightening. Earlier in the year the
young Verdi at cursed the teacher with "may you be struck by lightning."
Bosseto
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Casa Barezzi: Home of Antonio Barezzi, Verdi's patron and eventually
father-in-law. The home is now a museum and includes the piano on
which Verdi composed I Due Foscari
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Palazzo Orlandi - Verdi's home with his 2nd
wife Giuseppina Streppponi while they were waiting the construction of their
Sant/Agata estate.
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Villa Pallavicino - a town villa turned into a
civic museum with Verdi relics.
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Near the town main square there is an antiques
shop selling Verdi paraphernalia. Some of it is good.
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Teatro di Busseto on the town square was built by the towns folk as a stage
for and to honor their most famous citizen. Operas were staged here.
Verdi hated it, probably because the stage is ridiculously small for opera.
But the town folk persisted.
Sant'Agata, a few kilometers NE of Busseto
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