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3 Konobe In Hvar
The May 26, 2002 New York Times travel section
carried a story
Sweet Music In the Sun
Of Croatia
by Josip Novakovich about a family's summer stay on the island
of Hvar. The story mentioned three konobe on the island. We tried
them all - and all are ***.
No 1 on this 3-restaurant hit parade is Chez Pero [***, $ $], in Zarace,
on the main road (see photo) a few km's from the town of
Hvar. The town has several buildings, but Pero appears
to be the only resident. The others left for work on the "mainland" or
immigrated in the war. We visited there a short time after the article
publication, stayed in a hotel on the Hvar harbor. We rented a scooter for
several days to do day tours of the 42-mile long
island. Our first stop at Pero's coincided with getting a flat tire at
the Zarace road sign. Chef Pero (chef at night, his daytime job is
fishing) called road emergency on his cell phone. While waiting we learned
that a table (one of only two) was free the following night. Pero took our reservation
and meal order, which was whatever was to be the catch of the day.
When we returned the following night, our patio table was already set out with
appetizers and a bottle of homemade wine.
The fresh catch was brought out for our inspection. We then watched Pero cook on open fire. Needless to say, the meal and
experience was exceptional.
The second restaurant is Konoba Vrisnik,
run by the Grgicevic family, is still
further out from the town. A third very charming
establishment is [name to be supplied] NYT also recommended Meneghello Place, on
St. Clement (a small Island near Hvar harbor), for dinner. We didn't have a chance to try it.
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Chez Pero in his "kitchen"
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Chez Pero Dinner photos
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